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Security Bar for Doors: The Honest UK Guide to Every Type

Security Bar for Doors: The Honest UK Guide to Every Type

by | Oct 31, 2026 | Home Security

A security bar for doors is a steel brace that stops a door being pushed open even if the lock fails. In UK homes the most useful types are floor-braced bars that hook under the handle of a uPVC door, across-the-door bars that sit in brackets on the frame, and track bars for sliding patio doors. The right one depends on your door, which way it opens, and whether you need it while you are at home or while you are out.

Below, we compare every common type honestly: what it does, where it falls short and which ratings are worth looking for.

What a door security bar does (and what it doesn’t)

Most break-ins through a door rely on defeating the lock or forcing the door away from the frame. A security bar adds a second line of resistance that doesn’t depend on the lock at all. Instead of the latch and keeps taking all the force, the bar transfers it into the floor, the frame or the wall.

That makes bars a partner to decent locks, not a replacement. Know the limits:

  • Most bars only work from the inside. Floor-braced and across-the-door bars are fitted by someone in the building, so they protect you while you are home or at night, not while the house is empty.
  • They don’t fix a weak door. If the glass, panel or frame is poor, a bar on the handle won’t stop someone going through the panel instead.
  • Fit matters. A bar that is the wrong length, on a slippery floor or at the wrong angle will not perform as it should.
  • Escape matters too. Anything that holds a door shut must be quick for you to remove in an emergency.

Types of door security bar compared

Type How it works Best for Main limitations
Floor-braced handle bar Hooks under the inside handle and braces the door against the floor Inward-opening single uPVC doors, used when you’re home Only usable from inside; must suit your handle and floor
Under-door wedge or brace Wedges between the bottom of the door and the floor Temporary use on inward-opening doors Depends heavily on floor grip and gap under the door
Across-the-door (drop-in or swing) bar A steel bar spans the door and drops or swings into brackets fixed to the frame or wall Back doors, outbuildings, commercial doors, some double doors Needs drilling; brackets must go into solid material
Sliding door track bar A bar or dowel sits in the bottom track so the sliding leaf can’t be slid open Sliding patio doors Doesn’t stop the door being lifted out; pair with anti-lift measures
Swing-down patio bar Fixed to the frame, it folds down across the sliding leaf Sliding patio doors you want to secure quickly Needs fixing to the frame; same lifting caveat
Frame reinforcement bar Steel strip screwed over the lock side of a timber frame (often called a London bar or Birmingham bar) Timber doors and frames Permanent fitting; not for uPVC frames

1. Floor-braced handle bars

This is the type most people mean when they search for a door security bar. One end sits under the inside lever handle, the other end sits on the floor a short distance from the door. If someone pushes or kicks the door inwards, the force runs down the bar into the floor, so the door stays shut even if the lock itself has been attacked.

Good for: single, inward-opening uPVC front and back doors. No drilling is usually needed, so they suit renters too.

Check before you buy:

  • That it suits your handle type. Many bars are designed around a lever handle, not a round knob.
  • The adjustment range, so the bar meets the floor at a sensible angle for your handle height.
  • The foot and floor surface. A grippy foot on carpet, tiles or laminate makes a real difference.
  • Whether it has been independently tested, rather than just claiming a “load rating”.

The Door Jammer – HOLDOOR is this type of bar, designed for UK uPVC doors. There’s more on it below.

2. Under-door wedges and braces

These sit at the foot of the door rather than under the handle, from simple angled wedges to small plates with a pressing arm. They are compact, but they rely almost entirely on floor grip and the gap under your door, so performance on smooth floors can be poor. Treat them as a temporary measure, and look for independent testing if you rely on one.

3. Across-the-door bars (drop-in and swing bars)

This is the traditional “barricade” bar: a length of steel that spans the width of the door and sits in two brackets fixed either side. Some lift out completely; others are hinged on one side and swing down into a keeper on the other. Many have a hole for a padlock so the bar can’t be lifted from outside through a gap or broken pane.

Good for: little-used back doors, garages, sheds, workshops and outward-opening doors where a floor brace won’t work. Some designs hold both leaves of a double door.

Things to know:

  • The bar is only as strong as the brackets and their fixings. They need to go into solid timber, masonry or a steel frame with suitable screws or anchors, not into thin uPVC profile.
  • Drilling may affect a door’s warranty and needs a landlord’s permission if you rent.
  • On a door you might need to escape through, make sure the bar is quick to lift out and that the key for any padlock is kept nearby.

4. Sliding patio door bars

Sliding doors need a different approach because there is no handle to brace and the door moves sideways. The classic fix is a bar or dowel cut to fit the bottom track behind the sliding leaf, so it can’t be slid open. Telescopic track bars do the same job and can be adjusted. Swing-down bars fix to the frame and fold down across the door when you need them.

The weakness is lifting. Older sliding doors can sometimes be lifted out of the track, and a bar in the bottom track does nothing about that. The Metropolitan Police advise checking that sliding patio doors have an anti-lift device, and West Yorkshire Police suggest a timber batten in the top track can help limit lifting, along with dedicated patio door locks. A track bar plus anti-lift protection is a sensible combination.

A floor-braced handle bar such as the Door Jammer – HOLDOOR is not suitable for sliding, patio, French or double doors, so for these, choose a product made for that door type.

5. Frame reinforcement bars (London and Birmingham bars)

Strictly speaking these are not removable bars at all. A London bar is a steel strip fitted over the lock side of a timber door frame, and a Birmingham bar reinforces the frame around the lock keep. They help stop the frame splitting when a timber door is kicked. The Met lists door bars such as a London bar or Birmingham bar among the ways to reinforce a door frame against forced entry.

They are a permanent, carefully fitted upgrade for timber frames, worth considering alongside a BS 3621 five-lever mortice lock.

Ratings worth looking for

Claims like “police approved” or a big kilogram figure are hard to check. Independent schemes are more useful:

  • Sold Secure. A test house originally set up by police forces and now run by the Master Locksmiths Association. Products are attack-tested and graded Bronze, Silver, Gold or Diamond, with Bronze aimed at opportunist attacks and higher grades at more determined ones. Not every product category uses all four grades.
  • Secured by Design (Police Preferred Specification). The police-owned scheme’s accreditation requires products to be independently tested to a relevant standard, certified by an accredited body or approved by a body such as Sold Secure, re-tested regularly and made in an inspected factory, as explained on Secured by Design’s standards page.
  • PAS 24. This applies to complete doorsets and windows, not add-on bars. If you’re replacing a door, police advice is to buy a whole doorset certified to PAS 24.

The simple test: if a seller says a bar is rated or accredited, you should be able to find it listed on the scheme’s own website.

Which bar for which door?

Your door Most suitable options
Single uPVC front or back door, opens inwards Floor-braced handle bar; plus a 3-star anti-snap cylinder
Timber front door Frame reinforcement bar, BS 3621 mortice lock, hinge bolts
Sliding patio door Track bar or swing-down bar, plus anti-lift protection and patio door locks
French or double doors Products made for double doors, such as shootbolts or a suitable across-the-door bar
Outward-opening door, garage or shed Across-the-door bar in solid brackets, often with a padlock; hinge bolts
Flat entrance door onto a communal corridor Check with your landlord or building manager first, as these are often fire doors

If you’re not sure where your door is weakest, our guide to the weak points of uPVC doors is a good place to start.

Fitting and everyday use

  1. Lock the door properly first. On a uPVC door, lift the handle and turn the key.
  2. Follow the maker’s fitting guidance for length and angle, then push firmly on the closed door to test it.
  3. Make it a habit. Choose a type you’ll actually use every night, and store it by the door.
  4. Plan your exit. Everyone at home should know how to remove it quickly, even in the dark.

Door Jammer – HOLDOOR: a floor-braced bar made for UK uPVC doors

We designed the Door Jammer – HOLDOOR for the door found in a huge number of UK homes: the single uPVC door with a lever handle. It hooks under the inside handle and braces the door against the floor, so the door stays shut even if the lock is snapped, bumped or picked.

  • Sold Secure Bronze rated and Secured by Design accredited (Police Preferred Specification)
  • Adjusts from 70cm to 120cm and fits most UK single-handle uPVC doors, with the handle on the left or right
  • No drilling and no tools; fits in about a minute
  • Purely mechanical, with no batteries or electronics
  • Made in Britain from British steel; invented and designed by Jon Gill in Manchester, and supplied with a wall mount
  • £90 with free UK delivery, 30-day returns and a 2-year warranty

It is fitted from inside, so it is designed for when someone is at home, such as overnight. It is not for sliding, French, double or patio doors.

In a fire: find the key, lift the Door Jammer off (or unlock and remove the Door Handle Guard), unlock the door and leave the building.

If you’d rather stop the inside handle being pressed down at all, the Door Handle Guard – HOLDOOR is a lockable steel cover for the inside lever of a single uPVC door. It is currently on pre-order and is being submitted for independent testing.

Frequently asked questions

Do door security bars really work?

A well-designed, correctly fitted bar adds real resistance because it doesn’t rely on the lock. It works best as one layer alongside good locks and a sound door. For more on what bars can and can’t do against force, read can a door security bar stop a kick-in?

Can I use a door security bar on a uPVC door?

Yes. Floor-braced handle bars are a good match for single, inward-opening uPVC doors because they need no drilling into the profile. Check the bar suits your handle and the height range fits your door.

What’s the best security bar for a sliding patio door?

Use a track bar or swing-down bar made for sliding doors, and make sure the door has anti-lift protection. Handle-and-floor bars are not designed for sliding doors.

Is it safe to block my door at night?

Only if you can remove the bar quickly. Keep keys in a set place near the door, make sure everyone at home knows how to release it, and don’t use bars on communal fire doors without checking with the building manager.

Next steps

  1. Check which way each of your doors opens and what it’s made of.
  2. Make sure your cylinders are anti-snap: see our guide to anti-lock snapping.
  3. Pick the bar type that matches each door using the table above.
  4. For a single uPVC door, see the Door Jammer – HOLDOOR, Sold Secure Bronze rated, no drilling, and made in Britain.
Secure Doors for Homes: Best Materials, Locks & Buying Tips

Secure Doors for Homes: Best Materials, Locks & Buying Tips

by | Oct 31, 2026 | Home Security

Latest official burglary figures: how many homes are burgled, how few burglaries end in a charge, and what the courts give. See The Dark Side, checked every quarter.

The most secure doors for homes aren’t defined by one material. They’re complete doorsets, meaning the door, frame, locks, hinges and glass, that have been tested together to a recognised standard such as PAS 24, fitted properly into the wall, and locked with a rated cylinder or British Standard lock. Choose the material for looks, budget and upkeep, then insist on the certification.

This guide explains what makes a door secure, how the main materials compare, which locks and fittings matter, and what to ask before you buy.

What makes a door secure?

Burglars tend to go for the quickest, quietest way in, attacking the lock, levering the door away from the frame, or breaking glass near the handle. A secure door resists all of these because every part has been designed and tested to work together.

1. A tested doorset

Avon and Somerset Police advise that if you’re replacing a door, you should always use a security-accredited product to a standard such as PAS 24:2022, rather than relying on a manufacturer’s claims. West Yorkshire Police likewise recommend buying a complete doorset certified to PAS 24.

2. A good lock, used properly

Even the best door is only as good as its lock. On uPVC and composite doors that usually means a multipoint lock worked by a euro cylinder. On timber doors it usually means a mortice deadlock and a nightlatch.

3. Solid installation

A certified door can still fail if the frame isn’t fixed securely into the wall or the door has been trimmed or altered after testing. Use an experienced installer and avoid modifications that aren’t part of the tested design.

4. Sensible glazing

Glass near the handle is a common weak point. West Yorkshire Police suggest laminated security glass to BS EN 356 P1A or greater for vulnerable doors.

Security standards explained

Standard What it covers Where you’ll see it
PAS 24 Enhanced security for complete doorsets and windows Most good-quality replacement front and back doors
Secured by Design Police-backed accreditation for security products Doors, locks and security accessories
TS 007 / SS312 Diamond Attack resistance of euro cylinders (and TS 007 handles) uPVC, composite and aluminium doors
BS 3621 / BS 8621 / BS 10621 Thief-resistant locks, with different exit functions Mostly timber doors
LPS 1175 Graded attack resistance from the Loss Prevention Certification Board Mainly commercial and higher-risk buildings

Building Regulations for new homes

For new-build homes in England, Approved Document Q has applied since 1 October 2015. East Suffolk Council’s guidance explains it covers accessible doors and windows (such as those at ground floor level) in new dwellings and conversions, which should be tested to PAS 24 or one of the listed alternative standards. It doesn’t apply retrospectively to existing homes, but it’s a useful benchmark when you’re choosing a replacement.

LPS 1175

LPS 1175 is published by the Loss Prevention Certification Board. Under Issue 8, ratings combine a letter for the threat level (A to H) and a number for the minimum delay. It’s mostly used for commercial and high-risk premises, so most homeowners will be choosing between PAS 24 doors.

Door materials compared

Every common material can be made into a secure doorset. The differences are mostly about cost, appearance, maintenance and how easy it is to upgrade later.

Material Strengths Things to watch
uPVC Usually the most affordable; low maintenance; multipoint locking is standard Check it’s a PAS 24 doorset and the cylinder is 3-star or Diamond rated
Composite Made from several layered materials, giving a robust leaf; wide range of styles Quality varies; ask for PAS 24 certification and check the cylinder rating
Solid timber Traditional look; suits period homes; can take mortice locks Needs regular maintenance; fit British Standard locks and consider hinge bolts
Aluminium Slim, modern frames; popular for patio and bi-fold doors Check the cylinder doesn’t protrude beyond the handle
Steel security doors Can be built to very high attack-resistance ratings Usually more expensive; often more than a typical home needs

For more on plastic doors specifically, see our guide to whether uPVC doors are secure.

Locks and hardware that matter

Euro cylinders

Look for a cylinder rated TS 007 3-star or Sold Secure SS312 Diamond. West Yorkshire Police describe a 3-star solution as the minimum to aim for when upgrading, and say cylinders should not be left protruding from the door or handle. The Master Locksmiths Association notes that SS312 Diamond is treated as equivalent to a Kitemarked 3-star cylinder. Our page on anti lock snapping explains why this matters.

Multipoint locks

Multipoint locks secure the door at several points along its edge, but only when fully engaged. Avon and Somerset Police advise always double-locking uPVC doors by lifting the handle, then turning and removing the key.

Mortice locks and nightlatches

For timber doors, a common set-up is a British Standard mortice deadlock and an automatic deadlocking rim lock. According to the MLA, BS 3621 locks need a key from both sides, BS 8621 locks open from inside without a key, and BS 10621 locks combine both modes. Some insurers require BS 3621, so check your policy.

Handles and spindles

Under TS 007, a 2-star security handle can be paired with a 1-star cylinder to reach a 3-star rating. It’s also worth checking the spindle that links the handles. The Security Spindle – HOLDOOR is an 8mm boxed steel spindle, 138mm long and trimmed to fit, with an anti-tamper security clip that resists handle manipulation.

Letterboxes, viewers and chains

  • Letterbox guard: fitted to the back of the door, it stops someone reaching in to open the door or fish for keys.
  • Door viewer: lets you see who’s outside before you open up.
  • Restrictor chain or limiter: lets you talk to a caller without opening the door fully.

Hinges

On outward-opening doors the hinges are exposed. West Yorkshire Police advise fitting hinge protectors or hinge bolts to each door hinge on French doors, and hinge bolts are a common upgrade on outward-opening timber doors generally.

Buying tips: how to choose a secure door

  1. Ask for the certification. Get the PAS 24 (or Secured by Design) details for the exact doorset you’re buying, not just the range.
  2. Check the cylinder. Ask which cylinder is supplied and what rating it has. Upgrading at the time of order is usually easy.
  3. Think about glazing. If the door has glass, ask whether it’s laminated and to which class.
  4. Check Building Regulations. The Planning Portal notes that replacing an external door with 50% glazing or more requires approval. Using an installer registered with a relevant Competent Person Scheme means you may not need to apply yourself.
  5. Get several quotes. Prices vary widely by material, size and spec, so compare like for like.

Keeping your door secure

  • Lubricate the lock and moving parts with a product the manufacturer recommends.
  • If the handle becomes stiff to lift or the key is hard to turn, get the door adjusted. Forcing it can damage the multipoint mechanism.
  • Check hinge and keep screws are tight.
  • Replace the cylinder if you lose a key or move into a new home.

Upgrading the door you already have

You don’t always need a new door. On a single uPVC door, these HOLDOOR products add security without replacing anything:

  • Door Jammer – HOLDOOR: hooks under the inside handle and braces the door against the floor, so it stays shut even if the lock is snapped, bumped or picked. It’s Sold Secure Bronze rated and Secured by Design accredited (Police Preferred Specification), adjusts from 70cm to 120cm, and fits most UK single-handle uPVC doors with no drilling or tools. It’s used when someone is home, as it’s fitted from inside.
  • Door Handle Guard – HOLDOOR: a lockable steel cover over the inside lever handle that locates in a Secure Keeper on the frame, so the handle can’t be pressed down. Currently on pre-order and being submitted for independent testing.

Neither is suitable for sliding, French, double or patio doors.

In a fire: find the key, lift the Door Jammer off (or unlock and remove the Door Handle Guard), unlock the door and leave the building.

FAQs

What is the most secure type of front door?

The most important thing is a doorset certified to a standard such as PAS 24 and fitted correctly. Steel security doors can reach higher ratings, but a good PAS 24 uPVC, composite or timber door is suitable for most homes.

Are composite doors more secure than uPVC?

Not automatically. Both can be secure if the doorset is PAS 24 certified and fitted with a 3-star or Diamond cylinder. Compare certifications rather than materials.

How can I tell if my door is PAS 24?

Check your installation paperwork or ask the installer or manufacturer. Some doors have a label on the edge or frame, but paperwork is the most reliable.

What lock should a wooden front door have?

Typically a BS 3621 5-lever mortice deadlock plus a British Standard nightlatch. Choose BS 8621 if you need to get out without a key.

Next steps

  1. Check your current door for a PAS 24 certificate and a rated cylinder.
  2. If you’re replacing it, shortlist doorsets with PAS 24 or Secured by Design accreditation and ask for the paperwork.
  3. If you’re keeping it, upgrade the cylinder and spindle, then add the Door Jammer – HOLDOOR to your single uPVC back door. It’s made in Britain from British steel and costs £90 with free UK delivery, 30-day returns and a 2-year warranty.