What Is Neighbourhood Watch? How It Works & How To Join

by iain macLEOD | Oct 31, 2026 | Home Security

Neighbourhood Watch is a volunteer-led community scheme where neighbours look out for each other, share information about local crime and work with their local police to make their area safer. In England and Wales it’s run by a charity, membership is free, and you can join online or start a group if there isn’t one on your street.

Here’s how it works in practice, what it does and doesn’t involve, and exactly how to join or set one up.

What is Neighbourhood Watch?

The national charity behind it, Neighbourhood Watch Network, describes itself as “a grassroots charitable movement working to build communities and prevent crime” and the largest volunteer-led crime prevention charity in England and Wales. It’s a charitable incorporated organisation (CIO No. 1173349).

Local schemes are run by volunteers and supported by local Neighbourhood Watch Associations, with Neighbourhood Watch Network acting as the national umbrella organisation.

A short history

According to the charity’s own timeline, the first UK schemes, then known as Home Watch, started in 1982 in response to local burglaries, with early schemes in places including Mollington in Cheshire. The national umbrella body was founded in 2007 and relaunched as a charitable incorporated organisation in 2017.

Scotland and Northern Ireland

The Neighbourhood Watch Network covers England and Wales. Its join page directs people in Scotland to Neighbourhood Watch Scotland. In Northern Ireland, nidirect explains that schemes are run by local residents and supported by the PSNI, and each scheme’s coordinator needs PSNI accreditation before the scheme can be registered.

How Neighbourhood Watch works day to day

There’s no single template. Each group decides what suits its street or estate, but most share a few common features.

Sharing information

Members receive local alerts and updates, and pass on anything that seems out of place. Neighbourhood Watch Network uses Neighbourhood Alert, which it describes as a government accredited, GDPR compliant system, to store members’ details. Many groups also use email lists, newsletters or messaging groups.

The coordinator

Each scheme has a volunteer coordinator who keeps it running: welcoming new members, passing on information and staying in touch with the local policing team. Groups are approved by trained local volunteers.

Building community, not just watching

The charity’s step-by-step guide encourages groups to plan positive activities, such as litter picks or coffee mornings, that reduce loneliness and isolation as well as opportunities for crime. A street where people know each other is more likely to notice when something isn’t right.

What Neighbourhood Watch is not

A common worry is that joining means patrolling the streets or confronting people. It doesn’t. As nidirect puts it for Northern Ireland schemes, members have no special powers and no one in the scheme is expected to put themselves at any risk. The role is to stay alert and report concerns through the proper channels:

• Emergency or crime in progress: call 999.
• Non-emergency: call 101 or report online through your local police force.
• Anonymous information: you can contact the independent charity Crimestoppers.

Why it’s worth getting involved

Burglary is still a real concern for many households. The latest ONS crime figures for England and Wales show police recorded burglary, which includes both residential and non-residential burglaries, fell by 6% to 222,304 offences in the year ending June 2026. Falling numbers are good news, but that’s still a lot of homes and businesses affected.

Benefits of joining a local scheme include:

• Local awareness: hearing about issues on your street or estate, such as doorstep scams or a spate of shed break-ins, so you can take precautions.
• Knowing your neighbours: someone to keep an eye on your home while you’re away, and someone you can check on in return.
• A link to local police: coordinators are encouraged to connect with their local policing team.
• Crime data: the charity suggests checking local crime statistics on police.uk when thinking about starting a group, which is useful whether you join or not.

Will it lower my home insurance?

Possibly, but don’t count on it. Price comparison site Compare the Market says some providers might reduce your premium for scheme membership, but not all do, and some expect you to be an active member. If it matters to you, ask your insurer directly.

How to join Neighbourhood Watch

Joining in England and Wales is free. The charity’s join page states that membership is free, with donations optional.

1. Sign up as an individual on the Neighbourhood Watch website.
2. Check for a local scheme. Use the postcode checker to see whether a group already covers your road.
3. Join your local scheme. Once you’ve signed up, you’ll be invited to join a local scheme if there’s one nearby.
4. Get involved at your own level. That might just mean reading alerts, or it might mean helping with events.

If you’re in Scotland, go to Neighbourhood Watch Scotland instead. In Northern Ireland, speak to your local coordinator, the PSNI or your local Policing and Community Safety Partnership (PCSP).

How to start a Neighbourhood Watch group

If there’s no scheme covering your street, you can start one. The charity’s step-by-step guide breaks it down like this:

1. Think about why. Consider your reasons, such as connecting neighbours or responding to concerns about crime.
2. Plan activities and resources. Work out what time, space and equipment you’ll need, and whether other local groups can help.
3. Talk to your neighbours. Getting neighbours involved is what makes a group succeed.
4. Check there isn’t already a group using the postcode checker.
5. Apply. Register (or log in) on the website and apply to start a scheme from your member area.
6. Wait for approval. A local Neighbourhood Watch representative will contact you. If approval takes longer than 15 working days, contact your local Association.
7. Once approved: sign up neighbours through the online platform and let your local policing team know you have a new scheme.

Neighbourhood Watch and your own home security

A good scheme makes your street more alert, but it can’t lock your door for you. The two work best together. Our guide on how to secure your home covers the basics room by room, and our front door security guide explains the quickest upgrades for the most-used entrance.

FAQs

Does it cost anything to join Neighbourhood Watch?

No. Neighbourhood Watch Network states that membership is free. Donations are welcome but optional.

Do I have to go on patrol or attend meetings?

No. You choose how involved you want to be. Members are not expected to patrol or confront anyone, and should never put themselves at risk.

Who runs Neighbourhood Watch?

In England and Wales, local volunteers run schemes, supported by local Associations and the national charity Neighbourhood Watch Network. Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own arrangements.

How do I find out if there is a scheme on my street?

Use the postcode checker on the Neighbourhood Watch website. If nothing comes up, ask your neighbours or your local policing team.

Next steps

1. Check whether a Neighbourhood Watch scheme already covers your street, and join it.
2. If there isn’t one, chat to a few neighbours and follow the charity’s steps to start one.
3. Look at your own doors. If you have a single uPVC back door, the Door Jammer – HOLDOOR hooks under the inside handle and braces it against the floor, so the door stays shut even if the lock is snapped, bumped or picked. It’s Sold Secure Bronze rated and Secured by Design accredited (Police Preferred Specification), fits in about a minute with no drilling or tools, and is made in Britain from British steel.

In a fire: find the key, lift the Door Jammer off (or unlock and remove the Door Handle Guard), unlock the door and leave the building.

7 French Door Security Devices To Deter Burglars (2026)

by iain macLEOD | Oct 31, 2026 | Home Security

French doors have two weak spots a single door doesn’t: the centre where the two leaves meet, and the second (fixed) leaf that’s only held by bolts. The most effective French door security devices tackle those points first: a 3-star anti-snap cylinder, strong top and bottom bolts on the fixed leaf, a lock that ties the handles together, plus hinge bolts and laminated glass where needed.

Below are seven devices worth considering, what each one fixes, and what to check before you buy. We’ll also be clear about what doesn’t suit French doors, including our own products.

Why French doors need extra attention

A set of French doors has an active leaf (the one with the handle and key) and a secondary leaf (sometimes called the slave or passive leaf). The secondary leaf is usually held by bolts into the head of the frame and the threshold. If those bolts are short, worn or left undone, both doors can be pushed open together, however good the main lock is.

French doors also tend to have a lot of glass, and if they open outwards the hinges can be exposed. So you’re looking at four areas: the lock, the secondary leaf, the hinges and the glazing.

Quick comparison

1. A 3-star anti-snap euro cylinder

Most uPVC, composite and aluminium French doors use a euro cylinder to work the multipoint lock on the active leaf. Basic cylinders can be snapped, so this is usually the first thing to upgrade. Our guide to anti lock snapping explains the risk in more detail.

What to look for: a cylinder rated TS 007 3-star or Sold Secure SS312 Diamond. West Yorkshire Police say a 3-star solution is the minimum to aim for when upgrading, and that cylinders should be measured properly and not left protruding from the door or handle.

Before you buy: measure from the central fixing screw to each end of your current cylinder, and check the rating applies to the size you need.

2. Shoot bolts or rack bolts on the secondary leaf

This is the step most often overlooked. On uPVC and aluminium French doors, the secondary leaf usually has shoot bolts operated by a small lever or handle on the door edge, sending bolts up into the frame head and down into the threshold. On timber doors, West Yorkshire Police recommend fitting mortice rack bolts to the top and bottom of each door leaf.

What to check:

• Do the bolts actually reach and engage the keeps when thrown?
• Are the keeps fixed firmly, or has the threshold or frame worn around them?
• Do you throw them every time, not just when you go on holiday?

If the shoot bolt mechanism is worn, a locksmith or door specialist can usually replace it with a matching unit for your door system.

3. A handle-locking device

Some products lock the two handles of a French door together so neither can be turned. One real example is the Patlock, which Neighbourhood Watch describes as an instant French door security lock that works by holding the door handles in place, so the door mechanism can’t be operated even if the locks are snapped or removed. It’s sold through the Neighbourhood Watch shop, with part of each sale going to its community grants scheme.

What to check: that your handle style and spacing are compatible, and how the product is removed in a hurry. Look at the manufacturer’s fitting guide before you buy.

This is the type of device to consider for French doors rather than a floor-braced door bar designed for single doors.

4. Lockable sash jammers

A sash jammer is a small surface-mounted device screwed to the door or frame. When engaged, a lever or cam blocks the door from opening. Lockable versions need a key to release, which matters on glazed doors because a non-locking jammer could be flipped open by someone reaching through broken glass.

What to check:

• That the jammer suits your door material and profile.
• That the screws will bite into something solid, not just a thin plastic skin.
• That fitting won’t affect any warranty on the doors.

Because they need screwing in, sash jammers aren’t usually an option for renters without the landlord’s permission.

5. Hinge bolts or hinge protectors

If your French doors open outwards, the hinges are on the outside. Hinge bolts are steel pins fitted to the hinge edge of each door that locate into the frame when the door is shut, so the door stays in place on that side even if the hinges are attacked. West Yorkshire Police advise fitting hinge protectors or hinge bolts to each door hinge on French doors.

What to check: whether your doors open in or out, and whether the door edge is deep enough to take the bolt. Many modern uPVC French doors already have hinge-side security built in, so check before adding more.

6. Laminated glass or security film

French doors are often mostly glass. Laminated glass has a plastic interlayer that holds the pane together when it cracks, making it slower and noisier to break through. West Yorkshire Police suggest laminated security glass to BS EN 356 P1A or greater for vulnerable doors, and Avon and Somerset Police note that glass can be strengthened with security film or laminated panels.

What to check:

• For laminated glass, ask your glazier which BS EN 356 class they’re offering.
• For film, use a product sold as security film (not decorative film) and have it fitted properly.
• Check the beading and seals. West Yorkshire Police warn that old, split putty or bonding makes glass easier to remove.

7. A PAS 24 certified replacement doorset

If your French doors are old, warped or don’t lock properly, upgrading parts may cost more than it saves. Avon and Somerset Police advise using a security-accredited product to a standard such as PAS 24:2022 when replacing a door, and West Yorkshire Police recommend buying a complete doorset certified to PAS 24. That means the frame, leaves, locks, hinges and glass have been tested together, not just the lock.

What to check: ask the supplier for the certification for the exact doorset you’re buying, and make sure the installer fits it as tested.

What about door security bars?

Floor-braced door bars, including the HOLDOOR Door Jammer, are designed for single doors with one handle. They aren’t suitable for French or double doors, because the two leaves meet in the middle and bracing one leaf doesn’t hold the pair together. For French doors, stick to the devices above. If your concern is a sliding patio door, look for anti-lift blocks and a bar or lock made for sliding tracks.

FAQs

What is the weakest point on French doors?

Often it’s the secondary leaf. If its top and bottom bolts are weak or not engaged, both doors can be forced together. The cylinder on the active leaf is the other common target.

Can I secure French doors without drilling?

Partly. Swapping the cylinder needs no drilling, and some handle-locking devices fit without tools. Bolts, hinge bolts and sash jammers usually need screws. Our renter’s guide covers other no-drill options.

Are French doors less secure than a single door?

Not necessarily. A modern PAS 24 French doorset with a 3-star cylinder can be very secure. Older sets with worn bolts and basic cylinders are where problems usually arise.

Do I need a locksmith?

For a cylinder swap, many people do it themselves. For shoot bolt mechanisms, hinge bolts or rack bolts, a locksmith or door specialist will make sure they’re fitted to work as intended.

Next steps

1. Check the cylinder on your active leaf for a TS 007 3-star or SS312 Diamond mark.
2. Throw the secondary leaf’s bolts and check they engage firmly at top and bottom.
3. Look at the hinges and glazing, and plan upgrades where needed.
4. Then look at your other doors. If you also have a single uPVC back door, the Door Jammer – HOLDOOR hooks under its inside handle and braces it against the floor, so it stays shut even if the lock is snapped, bumped or picked. It’s Sold Secure Bronze rated, Secured by Design accredited (Police Preferred Specification), and fits most UK single-handle uPVC doors without drilling. See our guide to securing your home for a whole-house checklist.

In a fire: find the key, lift the Door Jammer off (or unlock and remove the Door Handle Guard), unlock the door and leave the building.

Patio Door Security Locks UK: Best Options for Sliding and French Doors

by iain macLEOD | Oct 31, 2026 | Home Security

The right security patio door lock depends on how your door opens. Sliding patio doors need protection against being slid or lifted out of their track, so look at anti-lift blocks, auxiliary patio locks and track bars. French doors need both leaves held firmly and the hinge side protected, so look at a good cylinder, shoot bolts, hinge bolts and handle locks designed for double doors.

This guide goes through the options for each door type, what to check before you buy, and where a replacement door makes more sense than another add-on. We sell door security for single uPVC doors, and our products do not fit patio or French doors, so this is a straight guide to what does.

Why patio and French doors need extra attention

Patio and French doors usually sit at the back of the house, often out of sight of the street, with a lot of glass. City of London Police warns that sliding patio doors are vulnerable to forced entry, and West Yorkshire Police suggests considering additional locks and security for patio and conservatory doors that may be vulnerable.

The weak points differ by door type:

Sliding patio door security

1. Anti-lift blocks or devices

Older sliding doors can sometimes be lifted off their runners from outside. Anti-lift devices fit in the top track and fill the gap so the panel cannot be raised. Avon and Somerset Police recommends checking older sliding doors for anti-lift tracks, and West Yorkshire Police notes that a timber batten fixed into the top track can stop a door being lifted out. If you are buying a new sliding door, ask for anti-lift blocks as standard.

2. Auxiliary patio door locks

These are purpose-made locks that fit to the frame or the edge of the door (the stile) and lock the sliding panel to the fixed panel or frame. West Yorkshire Police lists “specifically designed patio door locks fitted onto the frame or stile” as a way to improve security. Most need drilling, so they are better for owners than renters. Look for products carrying the Secured by Design logo, which the same police advice recommends for add-on security products.

3. Sliding door track bars

A track bar is a telescopic rod that sits in the bottom track behind the sliding panel, so the door cannot be slid open. It is cheap, needs no drilling and can be removed in seconds, which makes it useful for renters or as an extra layer at night. It does not stop a lifting attack on its own, so pair it with anti-lift protection.

4. A better cylinder

Many sliding doors use a euro cylinder. If it sticks out beyond the handle, Avon and Somerset Police advise having it replaced with a shorter, break-resistant one. West Yorkshire Police recommends a cylinder rated TS 007 3 star (or a 1 star cylinder with 2 star handles) and says the outside end should not protrude more than 3mm beyond the door furniture.

5. Make sure the sliding panel is on the inside

West Yorkshire Police advises that, when buying a sliding door, you ask for the sliding section to be on the inside. It is worth checking which way round yours is fitted.

French door security

1. Upgrade the cylinder

On uPVC French doors, the cylinder on the main (active) leaf locks the multipoint mechanism. A TS 007 3 star or Sold Secure Diamond cylinder is the single most worthwhile upgrade. TS 007 testing covers snapping, drilling, picking and bumping, as this TS 007 guide explains. Our anti-lock snapping guide covers how to choose one.

2. Check the second leaf

The passive leaf is held by shoot bolts into the head and sill of the frame. Make sure they throw fully and engage firmly. If the passive leaf rattles or the bolts do not engage, get the door adjusted.

3. Handle locks for double uPVC French doors

Devices such as Patlock fit around both internal handles of double uPVC French doors and hold them in the locked position, so the doors stay locked even if the outside handles are operated. Patlock was reported in 2015 as having achieved Secured by Design police recognition, and retailers such as Lockshop Warehouse describe it as designed specifically for double uPVC French doors and not suitable for other door types. Check it suits your handles before buying. Like any internal device, it is fitted from inside, so you need a clear routine for removing it quickly in an emergency.

4. Bolts and hinge protection on timber French doors

For wooden French doors, West Yorkshire Police advises fitting mortice rack bolts to the top and bottom of each leaf, a BS 3621 five-lever mortice sashlock near the middle of the door, and hinge bolts or hinge protectors. If your doors open outwards, the hinge pins are on the outside, which makes hinge bolts or security hinges especially worthwhile.

Glass and the bigger picture

Large glass panels are part of the risk. West Yorkshire Police suggests laminated security glass to BS EN 356 P1A or better for vulnerable doors, and Avon and Somerset Police notes that glazing can be reinforced with special film. Laminated glass is best specified when a door or glazed unit is being replaced.

If your patio or French doors are old, draughty and poorly secured, adding several devices may cost more than it is worth. For replacements, police forces recommend a complete doorset certified to PAS 24, such as PAS 24:2022, and products accredited by Secured by Design. A Master Locksmiths Association member can check your existing locks and hinges. Our article are uPVC doors secure? covers what to look for in a uPVC doorset.

Comparing the options

Practical tips

• Check your door’s warranty before fitting anything that needs drilling; West Yorkshire Police notes that added devices could affect it.
• Keep keys out of sight and out of reach of the door, but somewhere everyone at home knows.
• Do not rely on an internal device alone when you go out: the lock is doing the work then.
• Light the garden side of the house and keep side gates locked, so nobody can work at the door unseen. Our guide on how to secure your home covers the wider picture.

FAQs

What is the best security lock for a sliding patio door?

There is no single best lock. The most effective combination is anti-lift protection, a frame- or stile-mounted auxiliary lock, and a TS 007 3 star cylinder, with a track bar as a no-drill extra layer.

Can I fit a door jammer to patio or French doors?

Handle-bracing door jammers, including the HOLDOOR Door Jammer, are designed for single doors and are not suitable for sliding, patio or French/double doors. Use devices designed for those doors instead.

Are track bars any good?

They are a useful, low-cost extra layer that stops the panel sliding. They do not prevent a lifting attack on their own, so make sure the door also has anti-lift protection.

What should I look for when replacing patio doors?

Ask for a doorset certified to PAS 24, anti-lift protection, the sliding panel on the inside, a TS 007 3 star cylinder and laminated glazing where possible.

Next steps

1. Work out what you have: sliding, uPVC French or timber French doors.
2. Check the cylinder. If it is not TS 007 3 star or Sold Secure Diamond, replace it first.
3. Add the device made for your door type: anti-lift and an auxiliary lock for sliding doors, or a double-door handle lock and good shoot bolts for uPVC French doors.
4. Do you also have a single uPVC back or side door? That is where the Door Jammer – HOLDOOR fits. It hooks under the inside handle and braces the door against the floor so it stays shut even if the lock is snapped, bumped or picked. It is Sold Secure Bronze rated and Secured by Design accredited (Police Preferred Specification), needs no drilling, and is made in Britain from British steel. It is used from inside, when someone is home. In a fire: find the key, lift the Door Jammer off, unlock the door and leave the building.
5. Not sure what suits your doors? Contact HOLDOOR and we will give you a straight answer, even if it is not one of our products.

What Is a Mortice Lock? Types and How to Identify and Measure One

by iain macLEOD | Oct 31, 2026 | Home Security

A mortice lock is a lock that sits inside a pocket (the mortice) cut into the edge of a door, rather than being screwed to the surface. You will usually see a metal faceplate on the door edge and a keyhole through the face of the door. On UK timber front and back doors, the most common security lock is a five-lever mortice deadlock made to British Standard BS 3621.

This guide explains how mortice locks work, the main types, how to tell what you have, how to measure one for replacement, and what the British Standards mean for security and insurance.

How a mortice lock works

Most traditional UK mortice locks are lever locks. Inside the case is a stack of flat levers. The correct key lifts each lever to exactly the right height, which lets the bolt slide out into a keep cut into the door frame, or back again. A wrong key leaves at least one lever in the way, so the bolt will not move.

Some mortice locks are made to take a euro cylinder instead of a lever key. In that case the cylinder’s security rating matters as much as the lock body.

Why mortice locks matter for security

Because the lock body is buried in the door, there is no exposed case to lever off, and the bolt is thrown deep into the frame. A deadbolt also cannot be pushed back by hand the way a spring latch can, which is one reason deadlocking is so important on external doors.

Police crime-prevention advice, including from West Yorkshire Police, recommends that wooden external doors have a five-lever mortice lock tested to BS 3621, and notes that insurers often require one. Timber and composite doors also commonly pair a British Standard mortice deadlock with a self-locking rim lock, as Avon and Somerset Police describes.

Types of mortice lock

Mortice deadlock

A deadlock has a bolt only, with no latch or handles. It is locked and unlocked with a key. It is often fitted alongside a separate night latch on a front door. The Crime Prevention Website suggests fitting a deadlock about a third of the way up from the bottom of the door.

Mortice sashlock

A sashlock combines a deadbolt with a spring latch operated by handles. You use the handles day to day and the key to deadlock the door. They are common on back doors. The same source suggests fitting a sashlock just below the middle of the door, avoiding the joint with the middle rail.

Mortice latches and bathroom locks

Internal doors often use mortice latches (no lock at all) or bathroom locks with a thumbturn. These are not security locks.

Hook-bolt mortice locks

Sliding doors sometimes use a mortice lock with a hook-shaped bolt that grips the keep, so the door cannot slide open.

Lever count: 3-lever vs 5-lever

More levers generally means more possible key combinations and more resistance to manipulation. Three-lever mortice locks are usually used on internal doors. For external doors, a lock to BS 3621 is the benchmark, and the Master Locksmiths Association explains that a lever mortice lock needs at least five levers to meet it, so a three-lever lock cannot be BS 3621.

British Standards explained

According to the Master Locksmiths Association, BS 3621 requires features such as at least five levers in a lever mortice lock, drill-resistant hardplates and a minimum 20mm bolt throw. Because a BS 3621 lock needs a key from inside, the MLA says it is unsuitable for properties with only one exit door, where a BS 8621 lock may be more appropriate. It also warns that BS 10621 locks should not be used on single-exit homes because of the risk of being trapped.

A BS 3621 lock should carry the British Standard Kitemark on its faceplate. Insurance requirements vary, so check your policy wording rather than assuming. The Crime Prevention Website also suggests getting any confirmation from your insurer in writing.

How to identify a mortice lock on your door

• Look at the door edge. A rectangular metal faceplate screwed flush into the edge, with a bolt (and sometimes a latch) behind it, means a mortice lock.
• Look at the door face. A lever mortice lock has a keyhole shaped for a long-bladed key, often with a small cover plate (escutcheon). A euro cylinder mortice lock has a cylinder in a keyhole-shaped profile.
• Check for markings. The faceplate often shows the maker’s name and, for a BS 3621 lock, the Kitemark and standard number.
• Handles or not? Keyhole only means a deadlock. Keyhole plus handles means a sashlock.

Compare this with a rim lock (such as a night latch), which has a box mounted on the inside face of the door, and a uPVC multipoint lock, which has a long strip down the door edge with several locking points. Most uPVC doors use multipoint locks rather than traditional lever mortice locks; our guide to whether uPVC doors are secure covers those.

How to measure a mortice lock for replacement

Open the door, remove the faceplate screws and carefully slide the lock out. Then measure:

1. Case size (depth): from the front of the faceplate to the back of the lock case.
2. Backset: from the door edge (where the faceplate sits) to the centre of the keyhole or spindle hole.
3. Faceplate: its height and width, and the position of the screw holes.
4. For sashlocks, the centres: the distance between the spindle and the keyhole, so your handles line up.

The two most common UK sizes, according to Door Furniture Direct, are:

Some manufacturers list slightly different case depths for the same backsets, so always check the dimensions on the product you are buying rather than relying on the nominal size. Matching your existing lock means it will slot straight into the existing mortice without cutting the door, which is better for the door’s strength.

Write the measurements down and photograph the faceplate and any markings before you order. The Crime Prevention Website notes that doors thinner than 44mm are not suitable for mortice locks, although reinforcing kits can help where a door is only slightly under.

Before you upgrade

• Check the door and frame are sound. A strong lock in a rotten or split door will not hold.
• Make sure the keep in the frame is solid and securely fixed.
• Think about escape. If a BS 3621 deadlock is on your only exit, keep the key somewhere everyone knows, or talk to a locksmith about a BS 8621 lock.
• If you are not confident, a Master Locksmiths Association member can identify, supply and fit the right lock.

For a wider check of your front door, see our guide on how to secure your front door.

FAQs

What is the difference between a mortice lock and a deadlock?

“Mortice” describes how the lock is fitted (inside the door). “Deadlock” describes how it works (a bolt that can only be moved with a key or thumbturn). A mortice deadlock is both.

Is a 5-lever mortice lock the same as BS 3621?

Not automatically. A BS 3621 lever mortice lock must have at least five levers, but not every five-lever lock is tested to BS 3621. Look for the Kitemark and standard number on the faceplate.

Can I fit a mortice lock to a uPVC door?

uPVC doors normally use a multipoint lock rather than a traditional lever mortice lock. Replace like for like and speak to a specialist if you are unsure.

Do insurers require a BS 3621 lock?

Many home insurers ask for one on timber external doors, but requirements vary. Check your policy.

Next steps

1. Identify your lock type using the checklist above.
2. Measure the case, backset and faceplate before buying a replacement.
3. Choose a lock to the right standard for your door: BS 3621 for most houses, or BS 8621 where a keyless exit is needed.
4. If your back or side door is a single uPVC door rather than timber, the Door Jammer – HOLDOOR adds a physical layer when you are at home. It hooks under the inside handle and braces the door against the floor, so the door stays shut even if the lock is snapped, bumped or picked. It is Sold Secure Bronze rated and Secured by Design accredited (Police Preferred Specification), adjusts from 70cm to 120cm for most UK single-handle uPVC doors and needs no drilling or tools. Made in Britain from British steel. It is not for sliding, French/double or patio doors. In a fire: find the key, lift the Door Jammer off, unlock the door and leave the building.
5. Questions? Read our FAQs or contact HOLDOOR.

How to Adjust uPVC Door Hinges: Fix a Dropped Door and Draughts

by iain macLEOD | Oct 31, 2026 | Home Security

To adjust uPVC door hinges, open the door, remove the hinge cover caps and turn the adjustment screws with an Allen key, usually a 5mm one: one screw moves the door up or down, one moves it side to side, and on many flag hinges a third pulls it tighter to the seals (compression). Work in small turns, close the door to test after each one, and adjust the keeps on the frame last. Most dropped, draughty or hard-to-lock uPVC doors can be fixed this way in under an hour.

Before you start

Check your warranty

If the door is fairly new, check whether it is still covered by a manufacturer’s or installer’s guarantee before you adjust anything. Window and door firm Everest advises checking this first, and a quick call to the installer may get it fixed for free.

Tools

• Allen (hex) key set. A 5mm key is the most common size for hinge adjustment, but other sizes are used, so a set is safest.
• Small flat-head screwdriver to pop off cover caps
• Cross-head screwdriver for cap screws and some side screws
• Spirit level
• Pencil or masking tape to mark starting positions

Step 1: Diagnose the problem

Work out what the door is doing before you turn any screws.

Use a spirit level along the top of the door, check that the corner joints line up with the frame, and look at the gap down the lock side. Then open the door and operate the handle and key. If everything is smooth with the door open but stiff when shut, alignment is the problem, not the lock.

Step 2: Identify your hinge type

uPVC doors use a few main hinge types, and they offer different adjustments.

Flag hinges

The most common on modern uPVC doors and the most adjustable. A flag hinge has a “flag” plate fixed into the door and a body on the frame. According to Everest and Homebuilding, the top screw usually sets height, the side screw lateral position and the bottom screw, where fitted, compression. Not every flag hinge has a compression screw, and manufacturers do not all put the screws in the same place, so watch what each one does as you turn it.

Butt hinges

Older and less adjustable. Some only allow small vertical changes via the top and bottom pins; newer versions add side screws for lateral movement. Some have no adjustment at all.

T-hinges and rebate hinges

Similar to flag hinges, usually adjustable for height and side to side, but they may not have compression adjustment.

Step 3: Adjust the hinges

Adjust all the hinges on the door by the same amount unless you are correcting a twist. Mark each screw’s starting position so you can go back if needed.

Remove the covers

On flag hinges, the adjustment screws are hidden. Open the door, take off the top and bottom caps, and remove the large hinge cover, which may be held by screws on the inside of the hinge. On butt hinges, pop the cap on top of the pin; if there is a small grub screw, loosen it before adjusting the pin.

Height (dropped door)

Turn the height screw a turn or two and close the door to check. Everest notes the height screw on typical flag hinges gives around 4.5mm of adjustment. Lift the door until it clears the threshold evenly and the gap at the top is consistent.

Lateral (side to side)

Use the side screw to move the door towards or away from the hinge side. Typical flag hinges allow around 5mm. Aim for an even gap down the lock side, and check the hinge side so the door does not rub the frame.

Compression (seals and draughts)

If the door does not press firmly against the seals, adjust the compression screw a little at a time. There is less travel here: around 2mm either way on a typical flag hinge. On the Maxim 3D flag hinge, for example, the maker’s guidance is to turn the compression adjusters in small steps and not to force them, because forcing can damage the hinge.

Test after every change

Close the door, lift the handle and lock it with the key after each adjustment. Small movements make a big difference. Take your time: it is normal to go back and forth a few times.

Refit covers and check anti-lift screws

Refit all covers and caps. Some flag hinges have an anti-lift-off screw that stops the door being lifted off its hinges; the Maxim guidance, for instance, covers re-engaging it with a smaller Allen key. If your hinge has one, make sure it is set correctly before you finish.

Step 4: Fix draughts and locking issues at the keeps

Once the door hangs square, look at the keeps, the metal plates on the frame that the latch, deadbolt and locking points engage. Many keeps are adjustable or can be repositioned slightly.

• To pull the door tighter to the seals, adjust the keeps so the locking points pull the door in further as they engage.
• If the latch rattles, adjust the latch keep so the latch sits snugly.
• If the handle is stiff to lift, check which locking point is catching. Marks on the keeps often show where hooks or rollers are rubbing.

Homebuilding’s advice is to realign the hinges first, then fine-tune the keeps, rather than the other way round.

When adjustment is not enough

• Warped door: if it meets the frame top and bottom but not in the middle, it is likely warped and will need replacing.
• Worn hinges: if you run out of adjustment, the hinges may need replacing. Use matching hinges from the original supplier where possible.
• Still will not lock: the locking mechanism or gearbox may be worn after years of strain. A locksmith can confirm.

Why alignment matters for security

A door that is hard to lock tends to get left on the latch, and a uPVC door is only properly locked when the handle is lifted and the key turned. Strain from a dropped door also wears the gearbox and locking points, which can lead to failure. Fixing the hinges protects the lock as well as your heating bill.

While you are checking the door, look at the cylinder too. West Yorkshire Police recommend a 3-star solution under TS 007 as the minimum when upgrading cylinders. Our guide to anti lock snapping explains why, and our guide to the top weak points of uPVC doors covers the rest of the door.

FAQs

What size Allen key do I need for uPVC door hinges?

A 5mm key is the most common for flag hinge adjustment, but sizes vary between makers, and some hinges use a smaller key for the anti-lift screw. A full hex key set avoids guesswork.

Which screw raises a dropped uPVC door?

On most flag hinges it is the screw at the top of the hinge body. Turn it a little, then close the door and check. You may also need a small lateral adjustment to even out the gap on the lock side.

Can I fix a draughty uPVC door without replacing the seals?

Often, yes. Use the compression adjustment on the hinges and the keeps on the frame to pull the door tighter to the seals. If the seals are flattened, split or missing, they will need replacing.

Will adjusting the hinges void my warranty?

It might, depending on the terms. Check with the installer or manufacturer first if the door is still under guarantee.

Next steps

With the door hanging straight and locking smoothly, add protection that does not rely on the lock alone. The Door Jammer – HOLDOOR hooks under the inside handle of a uPVC door and braces it against the floor, so it stays shut even if the lock is snapped, bumped or picked. It is Sold Secure Bronze rated and Secured by Design accredited, adjusts from 70cm to 120cm, and fits most UK single-handle uPVC doors in about a minute with no drilling or tools. It is not for sliding, French/double or patio doors. £90 with free UK delivery and 30-day returns.

In a fire: find the key, lift the Door Jammer off (or unlock and remove the Door Handle Guard), unlock the door and leave the building.